Reference
Appliance Power Consumption Chart
Here is what common appliances actually draw, from a phone charger to a window air conditioner. Each one is listed with its running watts (the steady draw while it works), its surge watts (the brief spike when a motor or compressor kicks on), and a typical daily watt-hour figure. Add up the daily watt-hours for everything you want to run and you have the one number that sizes your whole off-grid system.
How to read this chart
Three columns do the heavy lifting. Running watts is the steady power an appliance uses while it is on. Surge watts is the short spike when a motor or compressor starts, which your inverter must be able to ride out even though it lasts only a moment. For resistive loads like heaters, kettles, and incandescent bulbs there is no real surge, so the chart shows "none (same)".
The typical daily use to Daily Wh column is the most useful for planning. It assumes a normal pattern of use and gives you the energy that appliance pulls from your battery over 24 hours. For things that cycle on and off, like fridges and freezers, that daily figure already accounts for the compressor resting most of the time, so do not multiply the running watts by 24.
Kitchen and cooking
| Appliance | Running watts | Surge / startup | Typical daily use → Daily Wh |
|---|---|---|---|
| Full-size fridge (AC) | 100–250 | 1,200–2,000 | Cycles 24h → 1,000–2,000 Wh |
| Upright / chest freezer | 100–200 | 1,000–1,800 | Cycles 24h → 1,000–2,000 Wh |
| Compact / mini fridge (AC) | 50–100 | 400–800 | Cycles 24h → 400–800 Wh |
| 12V DC compressor fridge | 40–60 (avg ~20–30) | 100–150 | Cycles 24h → 300–600 Wh |
| Microwave (1,000W cooking) | 1,200–1,500 input | none (same) | 10 min/day → 200–250 Wh |
| Microwave (700W cooking) | 1,000–1,100 input | none (same) | 10 min/day → 170–185 Wh |
| Electric kettle | 1,200–1,500 | none (same) | 3 boils/day → 150–250 Wh |
| Drip coffee maker | 800–1,200 | none (same) | 10 min brew + warm → 150–300 Wh |
| Toaster | 800–1,200 | none (same) | 2 cycles/day → 60–100 Wh |
| Toaster oven | 1,200–1,800 | none (same) | 20 min/day → 400–600 Wh |
| Induction cooktop (1 burner) | 1,200–1,800 | none (same) | 30 min/day → 600–900 Wh |
| Electric oven (full size) | 2,000–5,000 | none (same) | 1 hr/day → 2,000–3,000 Wh |
| Air fryer | 1,200–1,800 | none (same) | 20 min/day → 400–600 Wh |
| Instant Pot / electric pressure cooker | 700–1,000 (peak) | none (same) | 1 meal → 200–400 Wh |
| Rice cooker | 200–700 | none (same) | 1 batch → 100–250 Wh |
| Slow cooker (crock pot) | 150–300 | none (same) | 8 hr low → 1,000–1,800 Wh |
| Blender | 300–1,000 | 500–1,500 | 2 min/day → 15–35 Wh |
| Dishwasher (no internal heat) | 1,200–1,500 | none (same) | 1 cycle → 1,000–1,800 Wh |
| Hand mixer / food processor | 150–400 | 300–600 | 5 min/day → 15–30 Wh |
| Range hood / vent fan | 50–150 | 100–300 | 30 min/day → 25–75 Wh |
Cooling and heating
| Appliance | Running watts | Surge / startup | Typical daily use → Daily Wh |
|---|---|---|---|
| Window AC (5,000 BTU) | 450–600 | 1,200–1,800 | 6 hr → 2,700–3,600 Wh |
| Window AC (8,000 BTU) | 1,200–1,500 | 2,500–3,500 | 6 hr → 7,200–9,000 Wh |
| Window AC (12,000 BTU) | 1,600–2,000 | 3,500–5,100 | 6 hr → 9,600–12,000 Wh |
| Portable AC (10,000–14,000 BTU) | 1,000–1,800 | 2,500–4,000 | 6 hr → 6,000–10,000 Wh |
| 12V rooftop RV AC | 500–1,000 | 1,500–2,500 | 6 hr → 3,000–6,000 Wh |
| Mini-split (12,000 BTU, inverter) | 600–1,200 | none (soft start) | 8 hr → 4,800–9,600 Wh |
| Ceiling fan | 15–75 | 50–150 | 8 hr → 120–600 Wh |
| Box / pedestal fan | 40–100 | 100–200 | 8 hr → 320–800 Wh |
| Tower fan | 40–100 | 100–200 | 8 hr → 320–800 Wh |
| Space heater (low, 750W) | 750 | none (same) | 4 hr → 3,000 Wh |
| Space heater (high, 1,500W) | 1,500 | none (same) | 4 hr → 6,000 Wh |
| Electric blanket | 50–200 | none (same) | 3 hr → 150–600 Wh |
| Heated mattress pad | 60–180 | none (same) | 3 hr → 180–540 Wh |
| Dehumidifier | 300–700 | 800–1,500 | 8 hr cycling → 1,500–3,500 Wh |
| Swamp / evaporative cooler | 100–300 | 300–600 | 8 hr → 800–2,400 Wh |
| Electric throw / heated vest | 10–60 | none (same) | 4 hr → 40–240 Wh |
Lighting
| Appliance | Running watts | Surge / startup | Typical daily use → Daily Wh |
|---|---|---|---|
| LED bulb (per bulb) | 5–12 | none (same) | 5 hr x 4 bulbs → 100–240 Wh |
| LED strip light (per 5m reel) | 15–40 | none (same) | 5 hr → 75–200 Wh |
| 12V DC LED puck / dome light | 3–8 | none (same) | 5 hr x 4 → 60–160 Wh |
| CFL bulb | 13–25 | 40–80 (warm-up) | 5 hr x 4 → 260–500 Wh |
| Incandescent bulb | 40–100 | none (same) | 5 hr x 4 → 800–2,000 Wh |
| LED work / shop light | 20–60 | none (same) | 2 hr → 40–120 Wh |
| String / fairy lights (LED) | 5–25 | none (same) | 5 hr → 25–125 Wh |
| Headlamp / lantern (recharge) | 5–10 (charging) | none (same) | 2 hr charge → 10–20 Wh |
Lighting is the easiest win in any off-grid build. Swapping incandescent bulbs for LEDs cuts the lighting load by 80 to 90 percent, and going to 12V DC LEDs wired straight to the battery skips inverter losses entirely. A whole van or cabin worth of LED lighting often uses less power than a single old incandescent bulb.
Electronics and office
| Appliance | Running watts | Surge / startup | Typical daily use → Daily Wh |
|---|---|---|---|
| Laptop | 30–90 | none (same) | 6 hr → 180–540 Wh |
| Desktop PC (typical) | 150–400 | none (same) | 4 hr → 600–1,600 Wh |
| Gaming PC (under load) | 400–750 | none (same) | 3 hr → 1,200–2,250 Wh |
| Computer monitor | 20–60 | none (same) | 6 hr → 120–360 Wh |
| 32" LED TV | 30–55 | none (same) | 4 hr → 120–220 Wh |
| 55" LED TV | 60–120 | none (same) | 4 hr → 240–480 Wh |
| Wifi router / modem | 5–15 | none (same) | 24 hr → 120–360 Wh |
| Starlink (standard dish) | 50–75 (peak ~100) | none (same) | 24 hr → 1,200–1,800 Wh |
| Phone charge | 5–20 | none (same) | 1 full charge → 10–25 Wh |
| Tablet charge | 10–30 | none (same) | 1 full charge → 25–40 Wh |
| Game console (PS5 / Xbox) | 150–220 | none (same) | 3 hr → 450–660 Wh |
| Soundbar / stereo | 20–80 | none (same) | 4 hr → 80–320 Wh |
| Projector | 100–300 | none (same) | 2 hr → 200–600 Wh |
| Tablet / camera battery charger | 10–40 | none (same) | 1 charge → 20–60 Wh |
Starlink surprises people. The dish sips power moment to moment, but because it runs around the clock it can quietly become one of the larger daily loads in a remote build. If you need internet off-grid, budget for it like a small fridge, not like a phone charger.
Water and pumps
| Appliance | Running watts | Surge / startup | Typical daily use → Daily Wh |
|---|---|---|---|
| RV / van 12V water pump | 50–150 | 150–300 | 30 min total → 25–75 Wh |
| Well pump (1/2 HP) | 800–1,000 | 1,500–3,000 | 1 hr total → 800–1,000 Wh |
| Well pump (1 HP) | 1,500–2,000 | 3,000–6,000 | 1 hr total → 1,500–2,000 Wh |
| Sump pump (1/3–1/2 HP) | 800–1,050 | 1,300–2,900 | varies w/ water → 200–1,000 Wh |
| Aquarium pump / air pump | 3–25 | none (same) | 24 hr → 70–600 Wh |
| Pond / fountain pump | 20–100 | 50–200 | 12 hr → 240–1,200 Wh |
| Electric tankless water heater (whole house) | 12,000–36,000+ | none (same) | impractical off-grid |
| Point-of-use electric water heater (small) | 3,000–6,000 | none (same) | brief draws → very high spikes |
Tools and garage
| Appliance | Running watts | Surge / startup | Typical daily use → Daily Wh |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cordless drill (charger) | 50–120 | none (same) | 1 charge → 50–120 Wh |
| Corded drill | 400–800 | 800–1,500 | 15 min → 100–200 Wh |
| Circular saw | 1,200–1,800 | 2,300–3,500 | 15 min → 300–450 Wh |
| Angle grinder | 700–1,200 | 1,400–2,400 | 15 min → 175–300 Wh |
| Table saw | 1,500–1,800 | 3,000–4,500 | 20 min → 500–600 Wh |
| Air compressor (small pancake) | 1,000–1,600 | 2,000–4,000 | 10 min → 170–270 Wh |
| Shop vacuum | 1,000–1,400 | 1,800–2,800 | 15 min → 250–350 Wh |
| Bench grinder | 500–900 | 1,000–1,800 | 10 min → 85–150 Wh |
| Battery charger (12V automotive) | 100–400 | none (same) | 4 hr → 400–1,600 Wh |
| MIG / stick welder (120V) | 2,000–4,000 | 4,000–7,000 | short bursts → very high spikes |
| Soldering iron / heat gun | 40–1,800 | none (same) | varies widely |
Power tools are spiky. A circular saw or air compressor pulls a big surge every time the motor catches, so your inverter has to be rated for that peak, not the running watts. The daily watt-hours are usually modest because you only run them in short bursts, but if your inverter cannot survive the startup surge it will simply trip and shut down. When in doubt, size the inverter to the surge column.
Medical and miscellaneous
| Appliance | Running watts | Surge / startup | Typical daily use → Daily Wh |
|---|---|---|---|
| CPAP (no humidifier) | 30–60 | none (same) | 8 hr → 240–480 Wh |
| CPAP (with heated humidifier) | 60–110 | none (same) | 8 hr → 480–880 Wh |
| Nebulizer | 50–200 | 200–400 | 4 x 15 min → 50–200 Wh |
| Oxygen concentrator (portable) | 40–120 | 200–400 | varies → 1,000–3,000 Wh |
| Oxygen concentrator (home, 5L) | 300–600 | 600–1,200 | 24 hr → 7,000–14,000 Wh |
| Electric wheelchair (charge) | 200–400 | none (same) | 6 hr charge → 1,200–2,400 Wh |
| Hair dryer | 1,200–1,875 | none (same) | 10 min → 200–300 Wh |
| Curling / flat iron | 100–500 | none (same) | 10 min → 30–80 Wh |
| Electric toothbrush (charge) | 2–5 | none (same) | 1 charge → 3–6 Wh |
| Vacuum cleaner (upright) | 500–1,400 | 1,000–2,500 | 20 min → 200–450 Wh |
| Washing machine (no heat) | 400–800 | 1,200–2,300 | 1 cycle → 400–700 Wh |
| Clothes dryer (electric) | 2,000–5,000 | none (same) | 1 cycle → 2,000–4,000 Wh |
| Iron (clothes) | 1,000–1,800 | none (same) | 15 min → 250–450 Wh |
RV, van, and outdoor
| Appliance | Running watts | Surge / startup | Typical daily use → Daily Wh |
|---|---|---|---|
| 12V roof vent fan (Maxxair / Fantastic) | 10–50 | 50–100 | 10 hr → 100–500 Wh |
| 12V DC fridge / cooler (van) | 40–60 (avg ~20–30) | 100–150 | Cycles 24h → 300–600 Wh |
| 12V electric cooler (thermoelectric) | 40–60 | none (same) | 10 hr → 400–600 Wh |
| Diesel heater (glow plug, startup) | 90–120 (startup spike) | ~100 for 1–2 min | 2 starts → 10–20 Wh |
| Diesel heater (running fan + pump) | 8–30 | see glow plug | 8 hr → 65–240 Wh |
| 12V electric kettle / travel kettle | 120–170 | none (same) | 2 boils → 40–80 Wh |
| 12V tire inflator / air compressor | 120–180 | 200–350 | 10 min → 20–30 Wh |
| Inverter idle / standby draw | 5–30 | none (same) | 24 hr if left on → 120–720 Wh |
| Propane fridge igniter / control board | 1–5 | none (same) | 24 hr → 25–120 Wh |
| Water heater (12V circulation pump) | 20–60 | 50–120 | 1 hr → 20–60 Wh |
Two van builders' favorites stand out here. A roof vent fan and a 12V compressor fridge are both cheap to run because they are DC and efficient, which is why nearly every modern conversion uses them. A diesel heater is also a quiet winner: the glow plug pulls a brief 100W or so at startup, but once it is lit the fan and fuel pump sip only a handful of watts, so it heats a van all night on almost nothing.
Watch your inverter's idle draw. Leaving a large inverter switched on overnight with nothing plugged in can quietly drain a meaningful chunk of your battery just to keep itself awake. Switch it off when you do not need AC, or wire DC loads directly so the inverter can sleep.
How to turn watts into a daily total
The whole point of this chart is to build one number: your daily energy budget in watt-hours. The math is simple addition.
- For each appliance, take its running watts and multiply by the hours you use it per day. That is its daily watt-hours. Example: a 50W fan x 8 hours = 400Wh.
- For cycling appliances like fridges and freezers, use the Daily Wh figure from the chart directly instead of multiplying running watts by 24.
- Add up the daily watt-hours for every appliance on your list. That sum is your daily energy budget.
- For AC appliances run through an inverter, add about 10 to 15 percent on top for conversion losses.
That daily budget feeds everything downstream. It tells you how big a battery bank you need (with a buffer for cloudy days), and combined with your local sun-hours it tells you how many solar watts it takes to refill the bank each day. Our run-time calculator turns a single load and a battery size into hours, the battery bank calculator sizes the bank from your daily total, and the solar calculator sizes the array. To see how the sum becomes a full system, read how to size an off-grid solar system.
Where these numbers come from
Every figure here is a conservative, widely-published typical value, presented as a range because real appliances vary by brand, age, size, and setting. The high-impact loads (full-size fridge, window air conditioners, microwave, CPAP, 1/2 HP well pump, and electric tankless water heater) were cross-checked against current published manufacturer and power-station data in June 2026. Smaller and less variable loads use standard published ranges from appliance labels and energy-use references. None of these replace your own measurement. For anything that matters to your build, read the nameplate or meter it.
Match your budget to gear
Once you know your daily watt-hours, you can shop with confidence instead of guessing. A small daily total points you at a portable power station; a bigger one points at a custom battery and inverter build.
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If your number is large enough that a single power station will not cut it, the best units for emergencies roundup covers the bigger expandable systems. To confirm a unit can actually start your spiky loads, a plug-in watt meter is still the cheapest insurance you can buy.
Check Watt Meters on Amazon Browse 1000Wh Power Stations
Related references and guides
- Peak sun hours by state: how much solar your location really gets
- How to size an off-grid solar system
- What can a 1000Wh power station run?
- Battery bank calculator
Frequently Asked Questions
How many watts does a refrigerator use off-grid?
A modern full-size fridge draws roughly 100 to 250 watts while the compressor is running, but it does not run constantly. Over a full day it cycles on and off and uses about 1,000 to 2,000 watt-hours total. The compressor also needs a short startup surge of around 1,200 to 2,000 watts for a second or two, which your inverter has to handle even though it does not affect the daily total much. A 12V DC compressor fridge made for vans and RVs is far gentler, using only about 300 to 600Wh per day.
What are starting (surge) watts?
Anything with an electric motor or compressor, like a fridge, air conditioner, pump, or power tool, pulls a brief spike of extra current the instant it switches on. That spike is the starting or surge watt figure, and it is usually two to three times the running watts for a fraction of a second. Resistive loads like heaters, kettles, toasters, and incandescent bulbs have no real surge, so their starting watts equal their running watts. Your inverter or power station has to survive the surge, not just the running load.
How do I calculate watt-hours?
Multiply an appliance's running watts by the number of hours you use it per day. A 60W fan running 8 hours is 60 x 8 = 480 watt-hours. Add up the daily watt-hours for everything you plan to run and you have your daily energy budget, which is the single most important number for sizing a battery bank and solar array. For appliances that cycle on and off, like fridges and freezers, use the published daily Wh figure instead of assuming they run all day.
What uses the most power in an off-grid setup?
Anything that makes heat or cold with electricity is the heavy hitter: air conditioners, space heaters, electric water heaters, electric ovens and cooktops, hair dryers, and toasters. A single 1,500W space heater run overnight can use more energy than every light, fan, and phone charger in your build combined. This is why most off-grid setups heat and cook with propane, wood, or diesel and save the battery for electronics, lights, and the fridge.
Can a power station run a microwave or air conditioner?
A microwave is doable on a midsize unit, but watch the input watts, not the cooking watts. A microwave labeled 1,000W cooking power actually pulls about 1,500W from the outlet, so you need an inverter rated above that. Air conditioners are harder because of the startup surge. A small 5,000 BTU window unit needs roughly 450 to 600 running watts but can surge near 1,500W, and it will drain a 1,000Wh power station in well under two hours. Bigger units need a large solar generator or a dedicated battery bank.
Why does the chart show a range instead of one exact number?
Real appliances vary a lot by brand, age, size, efficiency, and setting. An old fridge can use twice what a new Energy Star model does, and a space heater on low draws half what it does on high. Published single numbers give false confidence. The honest answer is a conservative range, and the only way to know your exact figure is to read the nameplate label or measure it with a plug-in meter.
Are the watt-hour figures for AC or DC appliances?
The chart lists the appliance's own consumption. When you run an AC appliance off a battery through an inverter, add roughly 10 to 15 percent on top for inverter losses, and a little more for very small loads where the inverter's idle draw matters. DC appliances wired straight to the battery skip that penalty, which is one reason 12V fridges and DC lighting are popular in vans.